Colombia is a country known for its strikingly diverse landscapes, each more stunning than the last. From towering Andean mountains to the lush green depths of the Amazon rainforest, Colombia is a haven for nature lovers. But there’s one type of landscape that surprises many travelers—the desert. Nestled in the southwest of the country lies the Tatacoa Desert, a surreal expanse of dry land unlike anything else in Colombia. This isn’t the kind of desert filled with endless sand dunes, but rather a semi-arid region that’s a geological wonder and a visual spectacle all on its own. The Tatacoa Desert, or Desierto de la Tatacoa in Spanish, is a must-visit for those who love the outdoors and are drawn to unique, lesser-known destinations.
Interestingly, despite its awe-inspiring beauty, the Tatacoa Desert remains relatively off the beaten path. Many travelers who visit Colombia tend to flock to more famous spots such as Cartagena, Medellín, or the Caribbean beaches. As a result, the Tatacoa Desert is often overlooked, but it really shouldn’t be. Its raw, unspoiled landscape is both alien and enchanting, offering a perfect getaway for anyone looking to experience a different side of Colombia. In this article, we will provide you with all the necessary tips and practical advice for visiting this incredible desert. From transportation details to what you should do once you get there, we’ll cover it all to ensure that your trip is as smooth as possible. Whether you’re planning a quick visit or a longer stay, read on to discover everything you need to know about exploring the Tatacoa Desert.
Useful Tips for Visiting the Tatacoa Desert in Colombia
The Tatacoa Desert is a striking region located in the southwest of Colombia, near the town of Villavieja. It’s important to understand that the Tatacoa isn’t a desert in the traditional sense. It’s actually more of a tropical dry forest that, over time, has taken on the appearance of a desert due to erosion caused by wind and occasional rain. These natural forces have shaped the landscape into what it is today—an otherworldly terrain filled with towering rock formations, deep canyons, and bizarre shapes that seem like something out of a science fiction movie.
The desert itself is divided into two main sections: the red desert and the gray desert. Each has its own unique appeal, and both are equally stunning in their own right. The red desert is particularly striking, with its vibrant hues and intricate formations that look as if they’ve been painted by an artist’s hand. Meanwhile, the gray desert offers a more monochromatic but no less fascinating landscape. The juxtaposition of these two areas makes the Tatacoa Desert one of the most visually captivating places in Colombia.
One of the best parts about visiting the Tatacoa Desert is the freedom it affords. Unlike many popular tourist destinations, where activities are often tightly regulated or limited by guides, you can explore much of the Tatacoa on your own. This means that you can take your time, wandering through the vast expanses at your own pace, soaking in the serenity and isolation that the desert offers. Walking through this landscape, especially during sunrise or sunset, adds a magical dimension to your experience, as the colors of the rocks seem to shift and glow under the changing light.
Exploring the Red Desert: A Land of Fiery Colors and Intricate Pathways
The red desert is the heart of the Tatacoa and is usually the first stop for travelers. It’s the more popular of the two sections, mainly because of its central location and the breathtaking scenery it offers. The vibrant red-orange hues of the earth here are unforgettable. They make the landscape appear almost as if it’s on fire when the sunlight hits it just right. As you explore this area, you’ll come across various viewpoints along the road, where you can stop to take in the scenery from a distance before plunging into the maze-like paths of the desert itself.
One of the best ways to experience the red desert is by taking a walk along the marked trail that winds through the rocky terrain. The trail is reasonably well-signposted, although it’s often referred to as a labyrinth for a reason. The winding paths can be disorienting, and it’s easy to lose your sense of direction. For this reason, we recommend downloading an offline map app like Maps.me before you set out, just to ensure that you don’t get too turned around.
The red desert is more than just a feast for the eyes; it’s also home to a variety of wildlife. As you walk, you may spot cacti scattered among the rocks, or catch glimpses of the desert’s inhabitants, including colorful birds, goats grazing on sparse vegetation, and even snakes slithering through the sand. It’s important to be mindful of where you step, particularly if you’re not used to walking in desert environments.
Timing your walk is essential if you want to make the most of your experience. The desert heat can be punishing, especially later in the day, so we recommend starting your walk early in the morning, ideally before 9:00 am. This will give you a few hours to explore before the sun is at its hottest. Alternatively, consider visiting the red desert in the late afternoon, just before sunset. Not only is the temperature more bearable, but the setting sun casts an otherworldly glow across the landscape, bringing out the red colors even more vividly.
The Gray Desert: A Surreal World of Alien Landscapes
Just when you think you’ve seen everything the Tatacoa Desert has to offer, you discover the gray desert, located about 8 kilometers away from the red desert. This area is less visited but no less remarkable. The landscape here is characterized by rocky formations in shades of gray and white, which create an almost lunar appearance. It’s a stark contrast to the fiery tones of the red desert, yet equally mesmerizing in its own way.
Getting to the gray desert requires a bit more effort, as it’s further off the beaten path. You can reach it by tuk-tuk, quad bike, or even by bicycle if you’re feeling adventurous. The journey takes you through more barren terrain, but once you arrive, you’re rewarded with a surreal and serene landscape that feels like it’s been plucked from another planet.
One of the best ways to experience the gray desert is by taking a walk through its unique rock formations. The hike is shorter than the one in the red desert, at around 2 kilometers, but it’s just as rewarding. The gray desert is particularly stunning at sunset, when the fading light creates long shadows that highlight the strange shapes of the rocks. It’s a peaceful place, perfect for quiet contemplation or simply marveling at the wonders of nature.
Cooling Off in the Desert: A Refreshing Dip in the Pool
One of the more surprising features of the Tatacoa Desert is the presence of a swimming pool right in the middle of the barren landscape. After a hot and dusty day of exploring, the idea of cooling off in a pool might seem like a dream come true. Located near the gray desert, this pool offers a chance to relax and refresh before heading back to your accommodation. The water for the pool is pumped from the desert’s only water reservoir, making it a rare oasis in this otherwise arid region.
However, it’s worth noting that the locals aren’t entirely happy with the pool’s existence. Many see it as a misuse of the limited water resources available in the desert, and as a result, some travelers choose to skip the swim out of respect for the environment. If you do decide to take a dip, the entry fee is around 10,000 COP (about €2.50), which is a small price to pay for some relief from the heat.
Stargazing in the Tatacoa Desert: A Window to the Universe
One of the absolute highlights of visiting the Tatacoa Desert is the chance to experience some of the best stargazing in the world. Thanks to its location just three degrees north of the equator and the lack of light pollution, the desert’s night skies are filled with stars. On a clear night, the sky is ablaze with countless twinkling lights, offering a view of the galaxy that few places on Earth can rival.
There are two observatories in the desert where you can enjoy this celestial spectacle. Both offer nightly stargazing sessions, where local astronomers share their knowledge of the stars, planets, and constellations. For a small fee (usually around 10,000 COP, or €2.50), you can lie back on the ground and gaze up at the night sky while learning about the mysteries of the universe. The experience is both educational and awe-inspiring, as you have the opportunity to view distant stars and galaxies through telescopes.
Even if you’re not an astronomy buff, the sheer number of stars visible in the desert is something to behold. It’s a humbling reminder of how vast the universe truly is, and it’s an experience that stays with you long after you’ve left the desert.
Getting Around in the Tatacoa Desert: Transportation Options
The Tatacoa Desert may be remote, but there are several ways to get around once you’re there. The two main sections of the desert are about 8 kilometers apart, so having a mode of transport is essential if you want to explore both the red and gray areas. Luckily, there are a few options available, depending on your budget and level of adventure.
One option is to rent a bicycle, which can be found at various locations around the desert. Renting a bike typically costs between €10 and €20 per day. While cycling through the desert sounds like a fun idea, it’s important to remember that the heat can be intense, and the bikes themselves are often basic in quality. If you decide to go this route, be sure to bring plenty of water and take breaks in the shade to avoid overheating.
Another popular option is renting a quad bike. This allows you to cover more ground quickly and easily, but it comes at a higher cost. Rentals are usually charged by the hour, and prices can quickly add up to several tens of euros. While quads are convenient, they’re not the most budget-friendly choice.
For a more affordable and practical option, many travelers opt for tuk-tuks. The prices for tuk-tuks are generally fixed, making it easy to plan your budget without worrying about haggling. Tuk-tuks can also be arranged to pick you up at a specific time and place, which is especially convenient if you’re planning to catch the sunset or a stargazing session. If you’re visiting multiple areas of the desert, you can negotiate a package price with the driver.
Where to Eat in the Tatacoa Desert: Dining in the Desert
Given the remote location of the Tatacoa Desert, it’s no surprise that dining options are somewhat limited. However, you’ll still find a few places to grab a bite, particularly in the nearby town of Villavieja. One of the more unique spots to eat is La Planta Brew Pub, which stands out for its quirky atmosphere and tasty food. The pub has an unusual entry policy, where you pay a small fee of 5,000 COP (around €1.20), which is then exchanged for a drink voucher. The atmosphere at La Planta Brew Pub is lively, with murals adorning the walls and a vibe that feels like a mini-festival. On weekends, locals often gather here to enjoy a beer and socialize, making it a great place to meet people and soak in the local culture.
If you’re in the mood for something sweet, Café Mael is the place to go. Their waffles topped with fresh fruit and ice cream are a treat that’s hard to resist, especially after a long day of exploring the desert. While you won’t find gourmet dining in the Tatacoa Desert, these simple, down-to-earth options provide a satisfying and enjoyable meal in a truly unique setting.
Where to Stay in the Tatacoa Desert: Accommodation Tips
Because the Tatacoa Desert is relatively remote, it’s a good idea to plan your stay carefully. Most visitors opt to spend two nights in or near the desert, which gives them enough time to explore the area without feeling rushed. Staying for more than two nights isn’t usually necessary, as there isn’t a huge amount of activities beyond what we’ve already mentioned. However, the time you do spend in the desert will be a memorable experience.
One of the best options is to spend your first night right in the heart of the desert. There are a few basic accommodations scattered throughout the area, typically offering simple rooms or cabins with limited amenities. Most of these places don’t have reliable internet or electricity, so it’s a good idea to come prepared for a more rustic experience. Staying in the desert allows you to enjoy the stunning night skies and wake up early for a morning hike before the heat of the day sets in.
If you prefer a bit more comfort, you can spend your second night in Villavieja, the small town located about 20 minutes away by tuk-tuk. Villavieja offers slightly more amenities, including air conditioning and access to a swimming pool—both of which can feel like luxuries after a day in the desert. One recommended place to stay in Villavieja is Hotel Villa Paraiso, which has a nice pool and comfortable rooms. Another good option is Casa de Campo Los Cactus, which is located closer to the desert and offers a peaceful, secluded setting.
It’s worth noting that many accommodations in the Tatacoa Desert aren’t available for booking online, so it’s often best to simply arrive and find a place in person. While this might sound risky, there’s usually plenty of availability, especially if you’re visiting during the quieter months.
How to Get to the Tatacoa Desert: Travel Options
Getting to the Tatacoa Desert requires some planning, as it’s not the easiest place to reach. However, for those willing to make the journey, the rewards are well worth the effort. The desert is located near Villavieja, a small town that serves as the gateway to the Tatacoa. Most travelers begin their journey in either Bogotá or Salento, both of which are well-connected to the rest of Colombia.
If you’re coming from Bogotá, the easiest way to reach the Tatacoa Desert is by bus. The journey takes around 6 to 7 hours and costs approximately 50,000 COP (about €12). Once you arrive in Neiva, a larger city located near the desert, you’ll need to transfer to a smaller vehicle, such as a shared truck or a Coomotor bus, which will take you to Villavieja for around 10,000 COP (€2.35). From there, it’s just a short tuk-tuk ride (costing around 20,000 COP, or €4.70) to the desert itself.
Alternatively, you can fly from Bogotá to Neiva, which cuts down on travel time but costs a bit more. Once in Neiva, you’ll follow the same steps to reach Villavieja and then the desert. This option is ideal if you’re short on time but don’t mind spending a little extra for convenience.
If you’re traveling from Salento, the journey to the Tatacoa Desert takes a bit longer. First, you’ll need to take a bus to Armenia, which takes about 1.5 hours. From there, you’ll catch a bus to Neiva, a trip that takes around 3.5 hours and costs approximately 40,000 COP (€9). Once in Neiva, you can follow the same steps as outlined above to reach the desert.
No matter which route you choose, the journey to the Tatacoa Desert is part of the adventure. As you travel through the changing landscapes of Colombia, you’ll get a sense of just how diverse this country truly is. By the time you arrive in the desert, you’ll be ready to immerse yourself in one of Colombia’s most extraordinary natural wonders.
Conclusion: Why the Tatacoa Desert is a Must-Visit in Colombia
The Tatacoa Desert is a destination that offers a unique blend of natural beauty, adventure, and tranquility. Whether you’re drawn to its fiery red canyons, its surreal gray landscapes, or its unparalleled night skies, the Tatacoa has something to captivate every traveler. While it may take some effort to get there, the rewards are immense. From stargazing under some of the clearest skies in the world to exploring the strange and wonderful rock formations that define this desert, a visit to the Tatacoa is an experience you won’t soon forget.
If you’re planning a trip to Colombia and looking for something off the beaten path, consider adding the Tatacoa Desert to your itinerary. It’s a place where you can truly disconnect from the modern world and reconnect with the raw beauty of nature.